It’s always a pleasure to be back in Bern, the captivating capital of Switzerland that Einstein once called home. One of Switzerland’s most underrated places, Bern is filled with arcaded streets and wooded slopes with the crystal-clear turquoise river Aare flowing through the city.
The Swiss capital boats some of the best quality of life in the world, is home to idyllic bike trails, bears and ample green space. The UNESCO protected medieval Old Town is an enchanting labyrinthine of cobblestone streets that wind around clock towers, gothic cathedrals, covered shopping arcades and rosy red rooftops.
The fact that Bern is the opposite of what you expect a capital city to be has always charmed me. Life here is enjoyed at a slower pace. In summer, locals paddle down the crystal-clean river and absent are high rises or bustling crowds. Instead, you’ll find a picturesque cityscape accompanied by views of the snow-topped Alps.
I first experienced Bern back in June 2017 before What’s Good There was born, and so was delighted to return in December just gone, camera in hand, and eager to share the beauty of this lesser-explored destination.
Tips before travelling to Bern
- You could spend a long weekend here and get a great feel for the city
- Flights from the UK take around one hour and 45 minutes
- Swiss-German is the language spoken
- Bern has a small but expensive airport. Most international visitors fly to Zurich, Geneva or Basel and then a train to Bern
- Trains can be quite expensive so I’d recommend booking these in advance
- Once in town, everything is walkable
- Visit in summer to swim in the Aare river and in winter for magical Christmas markets
- Public swimming pools in Bern are free
- Bern also offers free bikes around the city centre for a 20 franc deposit. You’ll get free use of the bikes for four hours
What to do in Bern
- Explore the Old Town: Bern’s beautifully preserved medieval Old Town is neatly nestled in the loop of the Aare River. Stroll through the 6 kilometres of unique arcades, admiring the beautiful sandstone facades and sculptural fountains. Countless bars, speciality shops and atmospheric converted cellars await you.
- Climb up to the Rosengarten at sunset: One of our highlights during our time in Bern was experiencing the rose garden at sunset. Perched on a hill, it’s promises the best view of Bern (in my opinion) and sunsets from up here are simply magical.
- Watch the Zytglogge (Clock Tower): The aesthetic of this whimsical astronomical clock is as interesting as its history. Einstein was allegedly led to his theory of relativity when he looked at the buses coming round the tower and wondered what would happen to them if they moved at the speed of light. Today, four minutes before every hour, people gather around this ornate landmark of the city and watch the clockwork figures on the east face of the tower perform a unique spectacle.
- Experience life along the river – On hot summer days, the beautiful river Aare is the centre of daily life in Bern with hundreds of swimmers splashing about and floating down it. The Marzili is perhaps the most famous pool in the capital, right on the Aare with beautiful views of the Parliament Building and a wonderful place to base yourself on a lazy summer’s day. A relaxed stroll or cycle along the river is a great insider’s tip and if you really want to get to know Bern.
- Visit the bears of Bern: In general, I tend to be wary of endorsing animal tourism, but since 2009 the bears of Bern (Finn, Björk and Ursina) now have a modern 6,000 square metres park to enjoy. Their new home, BarenPark, includes tunnels, woodsy areas, hills and a spacious pool allowing them to climb, fish, play and retreat from the crowds. Visitors can observe the bears right in the heart of the city, set against the stunning milky blue river and the Old Town.
- Münster (Cathedral) – The towering spires of the cathedral dominate Bern’s skyline. It’s free to go inside and enjoy the beautiful architecture. For a small fee you can ascend the 250 steps up the tallest tower for excellent views over the city.
- Münsterplattform – This elevated park area in the grounds of the Cathedral is a great spot to get a break from the city.
- Einstein Museum – If you’re looking to learn about Albert Einstein, head here. Located in the Bernisches Historisches Museum it covers his life, his theories on relativity, and work in Switzerland.
- Outdoor Produce Market – Enjoy open-air shopping in the small streets and squares filled with fresh farmers’ produce among the unique UNESCO world heritage scenery.
- Christmas Markets – Throughout December, the city’s two main Christmas markets take over Münsterplatz and Waisenhausplatz where you can stock up on gifts and locally-designed products. Grab yourselves some Glühwein and browse away!
Where to eat and drink in Bern
- Café Pyrenees – Affectionately called the “Pyri” by locals, in the heart of the Old Town is a melting pot of locals and visitors who gather to eat, drink and enjoy the welcoming, bohemian atmosphere.
- Altes Tramdepot Brewery & restaurant – With superb views of the BearPark, river and Old Town this restaurant and craft beer hall offers delicious regional dishes in a relaxed setting. The Prestel’s with sweet mustard snack and the potato Rösti main were heavenly.
- Klosterli Weincafe – This stylish wine and coffee bar also serves the most amazing iced tea, which can be enjoyed on a leafy terrace.
- Marzilibrücke – A cosy bistro that serves European staple dishes and excellent pizzas. When we visited in winter the lovely garden had transformed into a winter wonderland with cosy tables inside ski lift pods!
- Adriano’s Bar & Café – A strong contender for the best coffee in town, whenever we’re in Bern daily visits are mandatory. This art deco gem is a coffee bar by morning, lunch bar at noon and cocktail bar by night.
- Loscher – A trendy, industrial style space in an old fire station. Great for lunch, dinner or drinks – reserve for meals to avoid disappointment.
- Restaurant Rosengarten – Set within the beautiful rose garden is a stylish restaurant that is great for breakfast, lunch or dinner with a view.
- Gelateria di Berna – A stone’s throw from Marzili, this is famed ice cream shop is well worth the wait for the ice cream.
- Some other restaurants that caught our eye were: Jack’s Brasserie, Restaurant Terrasse and Kornhauskeller.
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