“Ancient, very noble, always loyal, undefeated city of Porto.” – King Pedro IV
Promising post-card perfect views, azulejo-clad facades and golden rooftops, it is no wonder that Porto is a European destination on the rise. In Portugal’s charming second city, you will increasingly find tropes of visitors eagerly shuffling from one beautiful site to another. This September, I became one of them.
Here, I discovered a place that defiantly continues its traditions despite a well-trodden tourist trail, hip hotels and new brunch spots. As our Portuguese host firmly told us: “Locals in Porto don’t eat brunch! We eat breakfast. Or lunch.”
This rugged, achingly photogenic city offers glimpses into traditional Portuguese life around every cobblestoned corner. It is a place that oozes charm, from the washing lines that drape sunshine yellow buildings, and the UNESCO-protected merchants’ houses along the Douro River, to the churches adorned with intricate ceramic tiles, that breathe life into the most ancient of buildings.
On our first evening, we wandered through the winding streets of the Sé neighbourhood, and soon found ourselves in the midst of a lively street party. Traditional Fado music blasted, cheerful old ladies danced in the evening sun, and locals of all ages gathered around makeshift tables seated on mismatched chairs. We couldn’t have imagined a more perfectly Portuguese welcome.
Later on the trip, we ventured away from the beautiful but touristy Ribeira district, over to the other side of the Douro River. Here, where the river meets the sea, you will find the tiny, sleepy fishing village of São Pedro da Afurada. Come lunchtime, you will rub shoulders with the locals who gather for meals scooped straight from the ocean – giant skewers of fried fish cooked in the street over large open grills, and the most wonderfully salty codfish.
For any curious traveller craving a healthy dose of culture, beautiful architecture, incredible cuisine and the most wonderful sunsets – Porto is the place for you.
What to do in Porto
- São Bento railway station: Experience the romance of rail travel whilst standing in the high ceilinged ticket-hall that is covered with magnificent azulejo tiles. The interior was completed in 1902, holding 20,000 ceramic tiles within.
- The Ribeira district: One of Porto’s most beautiful neighbourhoods. Located on the shores of the River Douro, this famous district is made up of medieval buildings, cobblestone streets and beautiful riverfront views alongside plenty of wine bars and restaurants.
- Dom Luis Bridge: This double-decker metal bridge was completed in 1886 by a student of Gustave Eiffel (known for the famous tower which bears his name). Sunsets from here are simply magical – the bridge becomes a hive of activity from the late afternoon onwards, as locals and tourists alike walk and cycle the upper deck or simply admire the views.
- Miradouro da Vitória: This scenic lookout point is perfect for sunset views or to glimpse the undulating sea of terracotta rooftops that comprise Porto.
- Igreja do Carmo: Enjoy this beautiful baroque church known for its stunning white and blue tiled side façade (pictured above). Many people don’t realise it is connected to a neighbouring church, separated by one of the world’s narrowest houses.
- Jardins do Palacio de Cristal: Designed in the 19th century, these lovely landscaped gardens offer fountains, superb river views and a slice of tranquillity that is not to be missed.
- Visit a Port house: Over on the Gaia side of the Douro River is where the port wine lodges are located. Made in the rolling green Douro valley, port is the city’s signature dessert wine. We visited Churchill’s Port wine cellar which I would highly recommend. The ‘classic port tasting’ costs €7.50 and includes a guided port wine tour and port tastings in an elegant bar area. It’s a great option if you want a good overview of the art of Port making and want to taste some different varieties without breaking the bank.
- Church of Saint Ildefonso: One of the most beautiful churches I have ever seen. Located near Batalha Square, the church boasts two decorated bell towers and a façade of – you guessed it – blue and white ceramic tiles. The ornate design depicts scenes from the life of Saint Ildefonso himself.
- Livraria Lello: Hailed as Porto’s most beautiful bookshop and said to have inspired J.K. Rowling’s storytelling, it is frequently ranked as one of the world’s most stunning bookstores.
- Clérigos Tower: A staple feature of Porto’s skyline, climb the 240 steps to the top of the tower for unrivalled panoramic views.
- Church of São Francisco: An austere gothic church on the outside, a dazzling display of gold leaf and finery on the inside. If you’re feeling brave enough, walk the eerily quiet catacombs beneath.
- Ride the tram: A scenic and easy way to explore the city. If you fancy a day at the seaside, hop on the #1 which will take you from Igreja de São Francisco along the Ribeira to Porto’s seafront area, Foz.
- Coração Alecrim: A gorgeous lifestyle store filled with carefully curated items aimed at those interested in the origin, sustainability and quality of the products they buy.
- Sé Cathedral: Porto’s main cathedral is not to be missed on account of its impressive architecture and viewing platform with incredible vistas over the whole of Porto.
- Mercado do Bolhão: Sadly, this historic market dating back to 1850 is currently closed for renovation. I’ve read many great things about it, so had it been open whilst we were there, we certainly would have visited.
- Serralves: Located 15 minutes outside the centre of Porto, this striking pink art deco house is a modern art museum surrounded by gorgeous gardens.
Where to eat and drink in Porto
- Bacalhau – Translating as codfish in Portuguese, this superb riverfront restaurant, unsurprisingly, has many dishes centered around seafood. Try the shrimp porridge, and be sure to reserve for lunch or dinner.
- Café Candelabro – An off-beat hidden gem tucked away down the backstreets. Hip and laid-back, Café Candelabro is a bar with simple snacks that also doubles up as a bookshop.
- Taberna do São Pedro – Located in the fisherman’s village, São Pedro da Afurada. Although it’s far from the city centre, this is one of the best places to get fresh seafood in Porto and well worth the trek. All the fish is cooked fresh outside on big grills just out front of the restaurant.
- Raiz – Delicious, traditional Portuguese food with plenty of vegetarian options. Reserve to avoid disappointment.
- Confeitaria do Bolhão – Visit this 120-year-old patisserie to sample some of the best cakes and Pastel de natas in all of Porto
- Café Mercator – A great spot for breakfast serving up delicious coffee and, of course, heavenly Pastel de natas!
Where to stay in Porto – Airbnb
Whilst researching accommodation in Porto, I was honestly blown away by the endless pages of beautiful yet affordable Airbnb rentals available.
From UNESCO-listed apartments to edgy contemporary lofts, Porto really does have it all when it comes to finding the perfect accommodation. We stayed in this chic Airbnb apartment and couldn’t have been happier with it. Located right in the heart of Porto, it’s a stones throw from the Ribeira and full of special littles touches like the miniature bottles of port on arrival.
Browse other accommodation options in Porto here:
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