In the north of Portugal a short distance from the border with Spain lies the ruggedly beautiful Peneda-Gerês National Park. Here, hundreds of hamlets and small villages can be found nestled in the mountains and low lands of the park. Among them is the sleepy village of Soajo, which September just gone I was lucky enough to find myself in. Wrapped in the peace of the National Park, the beautiful Old Town of Soajo feels like a step back in time,…