In the north of Portugal a short distance from the border with Spain lies the ruggedly beautiful Peneda-Gerês National Park.
Here, hundreds of hamlets and small villages can be found nestled in the mountains and low lands of the park. Among them is the sleepy village of Soajo, which September just gone I was lucky enough to find myself in.
Wrapped in the peace of the National Park, the beautiful Old Town of Soajo feels like a step back in time, largely made up of quaint granite houses and endless narrow streets to get lost in.
Traditions hold strong in these parts. This tiny settlement is best known for its large cluster of espigueiros – impressive granite granaries perched on stilts where for hundreds of years villagers have stored their precious grain from hungry rodents.
In Soajo we breathed in the fresh mountain air, tasted incredible local cuisine and hiked up streams to sparkling freshwater bathing pools, soaking in one of the most unique landscapes in northern Portugal. High above us, eagles soared over the wild rocky countryside, inhabited by wild ponies, wolves and long-horned cows.
We discovered a place where the best waterfalls and natural pools were hidden, not to be found on Google Maps but in the wisdom of a friendly local, her directions scrawled and starred in biro onto our map. A map which became our bible. I have shared some of her pearls of wisdom in the guide below.
Whether you’re simply passing through for a few hours, or seeking to fully immerse yourself in Portuguese rural life for a few days, I promise Soajo’s relaxed and welcoming atmosphere will leave a lasting sense of calm – it certainly did for us.
Tips before travelling to Soajo
- Soajo is a 1 hour 30 minutes drive from Porto airport
- The village is located on the edge of Peneda-Gerês National Park
- Soajo is very small so easily walkable but I would recommend hiring a car from Porto airport to get there and for exploring the surrounding area
- The village has all basic amenities including a bakery, butchers, supermarket, tourist information and ATM
- The main draw is the famous espigueiros which are popular with day trippers and for those exploring the surrounding areas of the park
- The currency used is the euro
What to do in Soajo
- Espigueiros do Soajo – Set against a horizon of breathtaking mountain views, these ancient granaries are a truly unique historical landmark, and a magical place to watch the sunset.
- Hiking Trails – If you love the outdoors and hiking, then Soajo is certainly the place for you. Hiking is the best way to discover the natural beauty of the area.
- Ponte da Ladeira – This charming arched medieval bridge is set in a hidden tranquil paradise. From here you can bathe in the sparkling fresh water of the river surrounded by a lush forest. As you leave Soajo the bridge is signposted but it is also marked on Google Maps.
- Poço Bento – Poço Bento is a gorgeous natural water bathing pool fed by a small waterfall. It is located in a secluded clearing that you’ll have all to yourself to enjoy if you’re determined enough to find it! To reach it, we hiked up the stream of the river Adrão, climbing on stepping-stones and at times wading through water. The route involves stepping over many slippery rocks so sensible footwear with good grip is a must for this one. To reach it, drive out of Soajo with the granaries on your right. After about 2-3 minutes of driving, on your right you’ll see a lay by right before a bend in the road and a bridge. Pull over here, and you’ll see sloping stairs that go down to the river which is where you can start the river hike. Make sure you follow the river in the direction that takes you under the bridge. After about an hour you’ll reach Poço Bento (depending on how fast you go).
- Hillside Swimming Pools – More swimming can be found just above the city on the way to Peneda. To reach it, head to the Saber Ao Borralho restaurant and take a right before the car park. Drive for about 5 minutes up a steep incline and on your left near the top of the hill you’ll find the pools. (Look out for the picnic tables opposite). I personally didn’t think this spot was as nice as the other pools because it felt more man-made. However, the pools are perched on a hill so the views from up here were beautiful.
- Poco Negro – This inviting natural pool and waterfall is surrounded by stones and lots of untouched nature. Jump into the water from a rope-swing and dry off on the smooth rocks.
- Lindoso Castle – Six miles to the east of Soajo lies Lindoso Castle. Here you can explore the dramatic castle ruins from the 17th century that was previously used to ward off invaders crossing the nearby Spanish border. En route to Lindoso by car, you will pass the majestic Alto-Lindoso dam, the biggest hydroelectric plant in Portugal.
Where to eat in Soajo
- Saber ao Borralho – A welcoming and cosy restaurant space serving up delicious traditional Portuguese dishes that vary by season. Reserve for either lunch or dinner.
- Casa do Videira – Delicious traditional cuisine is served here, including the speciality local beef and great wines.
Where to stay in Soajo
I would highly recommend staying in one of the charmingly authentic stone houses that can be found throughout Soajo. For our stay, we rented this stunning, lovingly restored farmhouse through Airbnb and couldn’t have been happier with it.
Browse other accommodation options here:
Booking.comDisclaimer: Some of the above links are affiliate links. If you choose to purchase using the above buttons, I receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps towards the upkeep of this website for which I am very grateful.
Save this post for later on Pinterest:
